Using a wood moisture meter, ensure that the moisture reading for the
subfloor does not exceed 12% and that the difference between the reading for the boards and subfloor
is no more than 4%. If the moisture reading is too high, find the moisture source and correct it.
Using a concrete moisture meter, check for moisture. If moisture is detected, a calcium chloride
test must be conducted. Concrete subfloor moisture content must not exceed 7 lb./1,000 sq. ft./24
that subfloor is appropriate
The subfloor must be plywood [minimum 5/8" [16 mm] thick] or approved OSB
[3/4" [19 mm]]. Screw subfloor firmly onto joists to prevent floor movement and squeaks. Replace any
existing floor or subfloor that has suffered water damage or shows structural weaknesses. The
surface must be flat. The maximum tolerance is 3/32" [2 mm] variation over 7 ft. [2 m]. If
necessary, sand any bumps using #20 grit paper or fill any holes with leveling compound.
The subfloor must be vacuumed clean and be smooth and free of any debris,
staples, visible nails, old adhesives, or other dried substances.
out the installation
Determine starting point or wall and the direction in which boards will be
installed. The boards in the last row must be at least 1-1/2" [38 mm] in width to ensure they are
properly secured. If the last row works out to be less than 1-1/2" [38 mm] wide, you must reduce the
width of the first row so that both the first and last rows meet this minimum requirement.
few boxes and lay out boards in the same position they will be installed
To create a more pleasing appearance, use boards from different boxes to
ensure a good mix of colors, nuances, and lengths. Before you start, select which boards go best
with the transition moldings you will be installing.
Using a chalk line, mark a guideline parallel to the starting wall and
perpendicular to the adjacent wall.
Cover all of the subfloor as well as the base of the walls [approx. 2" [51
mm]] with the recommended membrane. Place the
membrane strips in the opposite direction to the boards, without overlapping. The recommended
membrane includes a self-adhesive flap. Use waterproof tape to attach the strips on the short side.
Facing the wall, start at the left corner of the room, with the groove of
the first board facing you. Leave a gap between the wall and the edge of the board. Moving right,
put the next board in place. Moving vertically, insert the end tongue into the end groove of the
first board. Continue in this way until it is time to cut the last board to finish the first row.
trimmed boards to start next row
To minimize trim waste, select row end boards that are long enough for
their trimmed ends to be used to start subsequent rows. Leave a gap between the wall and the end of
each row. The first board of the second row must be at least 6" [150 mm] shorter or longer than the
one used in the first row. Cross joints must be staggered by at least 6" [150 mm] from one row to
the next. Avoid lining the joints up or having them follow too regular a pattern. Insert the tongue
at the side of the board into the groove of the first row board at a 45° angle. Line up the far left
side, set the board down, and apply slight pressure to lock in place.
Install subsequent rows in the same way. As the floor can still be moved
after the third row has been installed, it is recommended that you measure and realign with buffers,
boards in the last row
The boards in the last row must be at least 1-1/2" [38 mm] wide. Remember
to leave the necessary expansion gap. If an obstacle prevents the last board sliding into place, cut
the latch of the groove’s locking system with a chisel. Apply wood glue to the groove and insert the
Enjoy your Mirage floor for many years to
In the event of a discrepancy between the information written in this section and the Installation Guide, the latter shall prevail.
Copyright 2013 Boa-Franc – Floor colors may vary according to your monitor settings and the quality of your printer. For a better idea of the final look, visit a Mirage dealer. - *Registered trademark used under license.